Construction of Pteruges on the subarmalis

CENTURIO LEG IX HISP, VICUS

The pteruges pronounced ter-OO-gas, are leather `strips' attached at the shoulder and waist of the under armour padding called a
subarmalis in latin. With each individual the measurements obviously differ, so the measurements will not be given as these will give
rise to confusion. My intention is to show the method of construction, I used to construct my subarmalis/pteruges.

The initial starting point of my subarmalis and indeed the only original part of it left was an English Civil War `buff' coat. Buff
coat being the style as it was not buff at all, but I digress!

The skirt of the coat was divided lengthways around the circumference into strips of equal width; these were double layered
with leather cut from a side of hide. Another layer of strips to go around the waist were cut out, the length approx a third shorter
than the first layer of strips.

The side and bottom edges of these strips were then folded backwards and stuck down, holes were then made at roughly regular
intervals where the edges had been stuck down.(very very time consuming and very boring job to do, no pun intended.)

The leather was then hand stitched using linen thread through the holes already made for the purpose (another slow and repetitive
job), the top layer of pteruges were then stitched to the bottom layer where they joined the waist of the subarmalis. Both `sets'
were then sewn to the subarmalis `jacket'.

Once completed, the lower set of pteruges was embellished with tassels of natural cotton. Avoid using modern tassels, they may look good but will definitely not be authentic material! These were cut, glued and stitched to the bottom of each individual pteruge.

The shoulder pteruges are constructed in a similar way to the waist, being folded, glued and stitched, again measurements are not given for the same reason

To attach the pteruges at the shoulders I cut out a rectangle of leather for each shoulder, the outer edge, that is to say the edge
furthest from the neck of the subarmalis was scalloped along its entire length.

The top of each pteruge was glued to the rear of the shoulder piece. Starting at the middle and working out, each strip was angled
slightly from its neighbour. The second longer layer was then glued to the shoulder section, underneath the first layer but overlapping
the spaces of the first layer.

I have found that whilst the pteruges on the shoulders will not lay flat, they will not stick out like wings either and the weight of a
mail shirt when worn will pull the pteruges down into a better position.

Once glued into position the pteruges were stitched to the shoulder unit.
I have chosen to call it a unit as I have not attached it permanently to the subarmalis. I have found that attached pteruges tend to get caught when putting on a mail shirt and thought it would be easier if the shoulder pteruges were detachable

The pteruges where then dyed using a dark red leather dye, a neutral wax was applied and buffed to a finish