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Roman Fans Bryony Spurway
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Roman men and women loved using fans for a variety of purposes, both ornamental and practical. The use of fans came to Rome via the Egyptians and Greeks who, according to Euripides, derived their knowledge of them from "barbarous" countries - probably India and China. Few survive and our knowledge of them is derived from two main secondary sources: iconographic evidence such as murals, painted vases, and sculptures such as the Tanagra figurines (e.g. Standing Woman with Fan, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna); and literary sources such as Euripedes, Menander, Ovid, Martial, Strato and Suetonius. The Greek fan generally came in two forms: a small personal
hand-held fan or a large fan with a long handle which was carried by
slaves. There are occasional references to ripis or fire fans, but
these were a form of bellows rather than a personal item.
By about 500 B.C. fans made of peacock feathers were in use. Some of these were probably only a tuft of feathers set in a handle whereas others would be arranged to form layers and patterns. The peacock was the sacred bird of Hera (Juno, to the Romans) and was held as a symbol of refinement and luxury. Later fans were made by stretching linen or silk over a frame shaped like a leaf. The first fans to imitate leaves were triangular in form and inspired by the palm leaf, though they later evolved to become more gently curved and leaf-like in appearance. Like many other Greek fashions, the fan was one of the many elements of culture absorbed by the Romans after the Greeks were conquered in the 2nd century BC. They were used in a variety of different ways. (left: Tanagra figurine is in the Louvre. It is Greek and pre-dates the Roman period but is a good illustration of how a leaf-shaped fan would look). The personal fan, known as a flabellum, was used both as a
decorative ornament and to keep cool. It maintained the curved leaf
shape of the Greek fan but was generally made of thin, delicately
carved wood elaborately gilded and painted. Others were made of
feathers attached to wooden or ivory handles, or of linen or vellum
attached to a wooden frame. They could be triangular, circular or
leaf-shaped and were rigid, unlike modern folding fans. Examples of
these can be seen on painted Apulian vases such as the red-fugure
volute krater held at the Getty Center, Los Angeles. Originally the
patrician women of Rome were fanned by slaves, known as
flabelliferae, for it was socially taboo for a highborn lady to fan
herself. Later Roman women, however, carried their own fans for
personal use. Nor were women the only users of flabelliferae:
Suetonius wrote that the emperor Augustus instructed that he be
fanned by a slave as he slept.
For domestic use, great bunches of ostrich plumes tinted in various colours were suspended from gilded ceilings in upper class Roman villas. Fans were also used in cookery, whether preparing the food for general use or for ceremonial purposes. The 18th century Italian painter, Antonio d’Ercolano, in his inventory of classical features of the newly uncovered Herculaneum, depicts a sacrifice to Isis. A priest is seen fanning a fire upon an altar with a triangular flabellum, a style of fan that is still used in Italy today. This practice gave rise to the expression “to fan the flames of hope/desire” (Alkiphron, Letters).
Romano-British women are also known to have used fans. A
sculptured tombstone (c. A.D. 250) in Carlisle Museum shows a woman
holding a large round fan with radiating ribs. This style of fan can
also be seen carved on a 4th century Roman sarcophagus at York, in
which a pair of ivory handles were found and a reconstruction of the
object was undertaken by archaeologists. Whilst there is little
evidence for feather fans in Britain, it should be noted that
feathers are unlikely to have survived in the archaeological record.
However, the established trade routes between Britain and the
Mediterannean, and the importation of other luxury goods, suggest
that feather fans could have been imported. If this was the case
they would have been considered expensive, luxury items used by the
more wealthy Romano-British citizens. There is nothing to suggest
that fans during the Romano-British period were a female preserve
and, as in Rome, they may well have been used by men, slaves and in
the home on a practical level as well as a status symbol. |